Beauty and Destruction: San Marcelino, Zambales - In Pictures

Carabao riders at Dizon Mines

'Zambales mountains are rich in minerals and their slopes are densely forested'. I think I have to correct myself on the latter. Perhaps, it was densely forested in the past, (when mining wasn't rampant in the province of Zambales) not to mention the catastrophic eruption of Mt. Pinatubo in 1991 causing massive deforestation. Here in San Marcelino town during my adventure trips, I found beauty and destruction brought by nature and the human footprint.

The Mapanuepe Lake in Barangay Aglao and Buhawen.

Lake Mapanuepe

Created after the eruption of Mt. Pinatubo; this Lake submerged villages in San Marcelino Zambales when lahar blocked the major river systems in Mapanuepe Valley. The tallest structure in the valley, the Bojaoen Church was submerged except for its steel cross sticking out of the water. Now, this lake is a weekender's attraction.

Mapanuepe Lake in Barangay Buhawen San Marcelino, Zambales

Mapanuepe Lake is a freshwater lake fed by small rivers from the mighty mountains in Pili, San Marcelino, Zambales. An area of this mountain was destroyed, ripped apart, and dug up by reckless mining killing all the creatures that lived in the area. Then, an open-pit was formed with toxic chemicals.

This beautiful lake might be on its verge of complete destruction.


Beyond Mapanuepe Lake

After extending our stay at Mapanuepe Lake, we decided to visit a waterfall nearby together with the controversial Dizon Mines.

Tikes Falls

On the northeastern side of Mapanuepe Lake, about three kilometers away is a waterfall called Tikes. It also feeds Mapanuepe Lake passing a dike constructed by a mining company separating the mining area from Mapanuepe Valley. A local tourist attraction unknown to many.

Karl, a member of our group visited Tikes during the rainy season

Trek To Tikes Falls

From  Buhawen's Barangay Hall we took a trike to Sitio Camalca on a rough road for thirty-five minutes. We brought rice prior to our ride because our guide wants to demonstrate rice cooking in bamboo tubes. Reaching the jump-off point at 10:50 AM, we felt our arms and butts hurt because of the bumpy road jolting the tricycle during our ride.

Our guide Elorde pushing the trike uphill

It was scorching hot when we started the trek to Tikes Falls just past eleven in the morning, traversing a wide river almost dry. It allowed us safety passage crossing from each bank on plenty of crushed rocks scattered on the riverbed. We made ascended on a slippery trail to reach a dike by Dizon Mines.

Before reaching Tikes Falls we passed the northern part of the mining area.

Then the temperature was hotter. The place became desolate, barren, and arid as if you are in badlands (loathsome in general). Photographic in some way but the thought of how it all happened disgusted me. I can't imagine a mighty mountain like this - horrible!

The powdery soil in the middle of the dike

We passed a nipa hut where the caretaker of the mining area lives. Elorde shouted a name I can't remember but no one came out of the hut. We continued trekking until we reached a green vegetation. Alas! Grass at last! Our legs turned orange from the powdery soil along the way -we ignored it. Locals emerged from the tall grass looking for a lost cow. Then we reached a small waterfall with a nice pool and we cleaned up.

Downstream of Tikes Falls 

A few hundred leaping steps on rocks we reached Tikes Falls. "This is the wall of nature", declared Elorde swaying his hand to the rock wall with waters barely flowing. We, trekkers, looked at each other dissatisfied. Elorde must have seen the expressions on our faces. He smiled saying, 'this is what happens when we destroy nature. When I was a child this waterfall has a nice torrent in the summer.'

We passed the pool to Tikes Falls

Ric has no majestic waterfall to showcase this time.

Elorde started making a fire to cook rice in a bamboo 'cooker'. We had fun wrapping the uncooked rice in banana leaves inserting into the bamboo holes. The result was far better than rice cooked in a pot! After our lunch, we headed back to the pool where we took a swim for half an hour. Then we proceeded to the curse of Lake Mapanuepe and its settlers.

Manong learned the Bamboo Rice Cooking Method

Dizon Mines

Traversing the area of the tailings and mine waste of Dizon Mines for less than an hour will make you feel walking on moonscapes. At the constructed road for mining transport, crushed rocks were dumped on both sides, creating a hilly landscape. A sliced mountain is visible from afar - a mountain that once sheltered various forms of natural life.

The mighty mountain of Pili in San Marcelino, Zambales.

As we get closer to the heart of the mining field the devastation became prominent.

The stripped mountain at Dizon Mines

Dizon Mines

Then we reached the 'Devil's Pit' coined by our guide Elorde.

Our guide Elorde, lamenting while looking at the pit.

Elorde sat silently at the edge of the pit, looking down at the dark reddish water. With a sigh, he told us that no fish live there, no plants line the shores, and even birds and insects were afraid to fly close to the water. No wonder why he called it the 'Devil's Pit'. (The water is toxic and highly acidic).

A closer look at the pit

This river flows to Mapanuepe Lake, probably the dam has leaked. 

I couldn't say we were lucky to have set our eyes on this gigantic poison pit. It was an eyesore but in some way, we thanked Elorde for taking us there. It was his ancestors' source of bounty decades ago; before a mighty stroke of the greedy pen and lack of government concern destroyed the land. Perhaps Elorde wants us to share to the world his grief, his loss, and rage. My friend Elorde, we are sharing it now!

Blog Topics:

• Mapanuepe Lake
• Dizon Mines
• Tikes Falls
• Human Footprint